I have never purchased a dog over the internet before, how does this work?
The internet makes buying a puppy directly from a breeder very convenient and easy. It's worked out well for us and our customers. We have been able to place our puppies in great homes all across the US. You will be picking out your puppy through pictures on the website, phone calls, e-mails and videos and pictures of the puppy taken at different ages. If you find a puppy that you're interested in, a $300 non-refundable deposit is required to hold him/her for you (deposit is deducted from the price of the puppy). The remaining balance is due at 7 weeks of age. Payments can be made using credit/debit card (Visa, MasterCard, etc.), or Cash. No checks accepted. If you reserve a puppy early, we will keep you updated by sending you pictures or videos of your puppy. They can go to their new homes at 8 weeks of age. You can come here to pick up your puppy, or we can have it flown to an airport near you. We take care of all the necessary arrangements to ship your puppy. Our puppies fly out of Lambert Airport in St. Louis on Tuesdays and Fridays. You'll be given the flight details once the flight is booked and confirmed. Our puppies are taken to our Veterinarian for a wellness check up prior to flying, and a Certificate of Health will be issued stating he/she is healthy and can travel. The puppy will arrive at the airport, or the airline's cargo facility in his/her very own travel crate. Picking up your puppy at the airport is usually very quick and easy.
What kind of food should i feed my new puppy or dog?
Our kennel uses VICTOR brand dog food. All of our puppies and nursing females are given VICTOR Hi-Pro Plus, and our adult dogs are given VICTOR Multi-Pro.
Victor Super Premium Dog Food:
Scientifically advanced and nutritionally complete ingredients
Promotes healthy immune and digestive systems
Packed with high levels of quality protein from multiple meats
Promotes sustained energy for active dogs and puppies
Nutrient-dense formulas that require less intake and result in healthier output
Most definitely! Our puppies are guaranteed to be well socialized. Our puppies are handled beginning at birth several times a day. We have grandchildren with us almost daily that love to play with the puppies. Many breeders will SAY their puppies are well socialized, but that isn't always the case.
What about worming and vaccinations?
Our puppies worming schedule is 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age. Worming a puppy is just as important as vaccinating them. Intestinal worms can cause the death of a puppy very quickly. Our pups are given their first puppy vaccination at 6 weeks old. You'll be given a health record listing the worming dates and vaccine dates of your puppy. You will want to follow through with additional puppy shots at 9, 12 & 16 weeks of age. It's very important for you to know that puppies are not fully immunized to their greatest potential until they've completed their series of puppy shot. It is inadvisable to have your new pup around strange dogs until then. Be careful when walking your puppy and avoid other dog feces during this time. Please do not take your new puppy to dog parks or pet stores till it's safe to do so. You can, however, socialize your puppy with pets of friends and family as long as they are up to date on vaccinations and worming!
Do you have a health guarantee?
Yes, we have a 2-year health guarantee.
Are your adults and puppies registered?
Definitely! We have dogs registered with AKC and ACA.
Do they shed?
Yes, they are seasonal shedders. A good shedding tool (we use a Furminator brush) and regular brushing works well. Once the undercoat is shed, shedding is minimal and is controlled very well with an occasional brushing. Bathing is not usually necessary.
Do they chew?
Yes, they are just like any other puppy in this regard. They will chew on anything and everything they get their paws on. Make sure to have lots of chew toys and bones for them during this time. If you need to leave them home alone you can restrict them to certain areas of your home or you can crate them. They do very well with crating and will even come to find it comforting to have their own space to rest or nap.
Are they good off-leash?
Not usually (but there are exceptions!) Most Shibas cannot be trusted off leash outdoors because they love to run, they are natural hunters and love to chase squirrels, rabbits...whatever. You should plan on having them harnessed when you go for a walk. Your new puppy will become accustom to the harness very quickly. You just need to reassure him that “something doesn’t have him” when he is struggling against the leash. This is easily done by stopping the walk and petting him/her for a few seconds each time he struggles against the leash, and then beginning the walk again. Before you know it they are walking on a leash like a pro! It is also a good idea to have some sort of fencing around your yard for your Shiba.
Are they barkers?
Some might, but generally speaking, they are quiet dogs.
How do i potty / crate train my puppy?
We begin the potty training process at our kennel. Our dogs do really well at potty training when the process is continued and remains consistent. You will find that our puppies potty train very quickly. Visit the links below to learn more on potty and crate training your new puppy. Click the link below to watch a short video on crate/potty training your new dog. How To Crate and Potty Train Your New Puppy Additionally, if you would like to add to your potty training by teaching the puppy to use the bell method, click the link below. Potty Training Using the Bell Technique
How does crate training work?
Dogs learn to love their crate as their very own special and secure place. It does not matter if they are in their crate at home, in the car, a hotel, or visiting family, it is their familiar safe place. The crate should be large enough for the adult dog to stand up, turn around, and stretch out inside. With a puppy you can start with a smaller crate or we recommend blocking off one end so that it can not turn one end into sleeping and the other end for going to the bathroom. You are teaching your dog not to mess where you sleep! Dogs who are messing in their crates probably have too much room/space in the beginning stages of potty training. Dogs that have been kept in a small area and not taken out regularly are much harder to potty train because they have been forced to go to the bathroom in their living area. Our puppies are never placed in cages and forced to eliminate in them.
When it is time to nap or go to bed for the night, puppies do best if they can not hear or see everything that is going on.The puppy should be close enough to hear if they really start crying, but generally a different room is best.Covering the crate with a thin sheet in the beginning may also help.It gives them a sense of security and helps them settle down for sleep at the end of the day. We recommend never taking a puppy out of a crate when he is fussing (if you know he has went to the bathroom before crating for the night and all food and water were taken away at the appropriate time), that only teaches if he fusses enough, that he can come out. You can usually tell the difference between “I want to come out and play” versus “I really need to go potty”.You can give him a special chew toy or treat, just for when he is in the crate.A soft stuffed animal with the litter mates scent may also help.
Remember, putting your dog into a crate, does not of itself house train a dog. Our puppies learn at an early age not to soil in their area.Using the crate, trains your puppy to “hold it” and helps the puppy identify the appropriate time and place to go potty. To be successful, you want to prevent your puppy from making mistakes. Many people punish a dog for messing in the house and then virtually ignore the good behavior when they eliminate outside. So you get a dog that learns it is wrong to mess in the house when the owner is present. If you catch them in the act, make a loud noise to stop them (if possible) and take them outside immediately. Never clean up a mess when the puppy is watching. Always use cleaning supplies that eliminate the odor. To prevent mistakes, don't let your pup have the run of the house. He needs 100% active supervision. If you must leave the room, even for a phone call, crate him, take him with you or use a play yard. The real reason for crate training, besides preventing problems, is to help you predict when the pup will need to eliminate, so you can take him to the correct spot. The puppy is used to a regular feeding schedule (meal times can be adjusted gradually). Confine him after eating for 10 to 15 minutes and then take him to a potty spot. You can give a command like “go potty", they do understand, and will learn to go on command. PRAISE him after he goes to the bathroom. We have found it best to wait a few minutes after the puppy goes potty once because they will usually go again for a second time within a few minutes. If the puppy sits down beside you, walk away. He will follow you and this will stimulate him to go potty. The puppy will walk around sniffing the ground when they are looking for a place to eliminate. If he doesn’t go, crate him and try again in 15 minutes. Then take him back in and play with him, or if he likes it outside, play with him outside, or take him for a walk (after 3rd set of shots).
Always take the puppy out the same door, the one you are going to want him to signal at. Bells work great for some owners. Hang bells on the door, and give them a kick every time you open the door. Some dogs can be quiet, and stand at the door and look at it, some will let out a little yip, but others rely on you to see them standing at the door. So bells can be a marvelous tool. They will learn to swat them to get the door to open. Others use doggy doors. But a young pup can never be sent out to pee, he must be taken out.
Contact us for more information on adopting a puppy!